Meet Viognier - The Supermodel

The thing about that supermodel is that she’s not just tall, skinny and pretty. She’s super because she’s in very high demand and did not need to “get out of bed for less than $10,000 a day”. Viognier is that “it” girl. As a child, she was taller than even some boys – she was a tom boy who slouched a lot and was great at sports but not so great at make-up, hair, clothing and shoes. As she came of age she realized what she was working with and inevitably ended up in the fashion world, where her height was now an asset and her additional assets set her apart from the rest.

Who is she anyway?
Viognier is one of the “white wine trying to be a red wine” grape varieties, so much so that it ended up in blends with Syrah (the CEO, see previous post). This seemingly odd blending tradition started because they dwell in the same vineyards in parts of the Northern Rhône, and ended up getting picked and pressed together – field blend. French law sanctions up to 20% of Viognier in a Côte Rôtie wine, but this fickle, difficult-to-grow, low yielding vine makes it less than possible to eek out more than around 5%, and nowadays she doesn’t even show up for work (today’s Côte-Rôtie wines are 100% Syrah). The Aussies carried on the tradition in wineries that pay true homage to the heritage of Shiraz, blending Viognier in and even saying so on the label. These blends also only contain around 5% Viognier. Nonetheless, her presence in a blend is felt.

As a soloist, Viognier’s sensual, heady perfume and full body on the palate makes for a highly sought after varietal wine. The benchmark is Condrieu (pronounced kon-dree-YOU) in the Northern Rhône, one of France’s most exotic and captivating white wines. Her other happy home is in California, under the auspicies of The Rhône Rangers, the wiley wine renegades who wanted more than just Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay for a muse. Viognier has a few things in common with Gewürztraminer (the Diva, see previous post), including an difficult-to-pronounce name – say “vee-OH-nee-YAY”. And don’t mess it up or you might get slapped!

Flavor Profile and Food Pairing
For flavor profile, lovers of great classic perfume would love Viognier. If your mother wore Channel No. 5 when you were growing up and you enjoyed the summer’s ripest peaches or you enjoy exciting things that the mainstream consider luxurious such as artisan cheeses, truffles, smoked salmon, caviar – you’re a Viognier person for sure. If you really must pair Viognier with a meal *sigh* I see filet mignon with fingerling potatoes and perhaps some wilted spinach as a nice meal. But understand that you will have to tailor the meal to the wine (that’s generally true but it is especially true for the supermodel). You will find that she is worth it indeed!

Your Homework
Your homework for this week and weekend is to try 2 Viogniers. Ask your favorite retailer or browse your favorite wine website for a California Viognier as well as something from the Languedoc (south of France). New York State also produces some Viognier – Brooklyn Oenology makes one from North Fork of Long Island grapes which was a favorite at our store. Be prepared to spend $15.00 or more per bottle – because the vines yield low, its naturally an expensive wine to make. For extra credit, treat yourself a bottle of Condrieu. Top producers include Georges Vernay and E. Guigal). Not everyone will have these in stock but most will know what you’re talking about. Do Tweet your notes to @wineLIFE_ #ViognierHW. Tell us which one was your favorite (please include the wine’s name, vintage and region), how much you paid for it and its best qualities. You can also post notes on the wineLIFE Facebook wall. That’s delicious!

Meet Syrah - The CEO

He was the senior class president, always impeccably dressed to stand out from the rest of the high school crowd. He’s into older women and they love him too. Never needing any ostentation to impress, he has instead a way of commanding your attention and respect with a deep, booming voice and eloquent, well-chosen statements. As CEO of a major corporation, he puts those skills to good use. It was either that or politics – he would have found success there too, no doubt. Shiraz for president!

As Syrah, this thick skinned grape lives a happy life in France’s Rhône Valley, situated toward the south, working solo in the Northern Rhône (sometimes blended with a bit of the Viognier that resides in the same vineyard). From Côtes Rotie in the north to Cornas in the south, he’s the main event. In the Sourthern Rhône Syrah’s in lots of great company with Grenache, Mouvedre, Cinsault, et al. The region’s signature wine, Châteauneuf du Pape, can legally contain up to 13 different listed red varieties, all together or in any combination. Syrah is almost always in the mix and is usually detectable in the blend, the head fruit in charge. Take the Rhône all the way down to the Mediterranean and you will find Syrah still reigns in many quarters – the people’s choice!

As Shiraz, Australia has built a reputation on his shoulders, from the very cheap, animal-adorned party juice to the very rare and collectible music-in-a-glass. Like the Rhône, Australia has lots of hot sunny climes for Shiraz to thrive under – thick skinned grapes can stand more heat to develop more sugar and offer greater pigment and tannin for the making of very full bodied wine.

It’s the perfect wine for the typical American palate: think grape Blow Pops, Bazooka Joe, Sour Power, Swedish Fish and all kinds of fast food. Did I forget to mention chocolate? This is where Syrah goes in a different direction in flavor profile – not for the Snickers bar set. If Syrah were chocolate, it would be 70% Dark and Swiss or Belgian. Nonetheless, Syrah is very approachable, just be ready for your mouth to be taken over for a little while by a commanding presence.

Because it is so high in tannin and relatively low in acidity, Syrah not the greatest food wine – a glass can be a meal in itself! Nonetheless, your city’s best burger with the works and a side of fries would be a great mate for a glass of Syrah. Along the same lines, a good steak and a baked potato would work well. In fact, I always recommend Syrah wines for Thanksgiving, because that’s the ultimate flavor frenzy and this wine can handle it all! (Caution: Syrah may also help your turkey to cause all around drowsiness and you may find the football game watching you, but you’ll give thanks nonetheless!)

Your Homework
Your homework for this week and weekend is to try 3 Syrahs. Ask your favorite retailer or browse your favorite wine website for something from the Northern Rhône – St Joseph wines are the most accessible in profile and in price, but feel free to splurge on anything from Cornas or Crozes Hermitage splurge big on the venerable Hermitage itself. You will easily find Australian Shiraz in any wine shop or liquor store you enter. Try a cheap one that you can get under $10.00, and then find one over $15.00, just so you can clearly see the quality difference. My favorite wine region in Australia for Shiraz is McLaren Vale for that over $15 bottle. For extra credit, find a Syrah from California. You will impress your wine retailer with your knowledge of the name Rhône Rangers. It may very well serve as your password to gain access to some goodies from Paso Robles winemakers dedicated to Rhône Valley grape varieties – this could be lots of fun! Do Tweet your notes to @wineLIFE_ #SyrahHW. Tell us which one was your favorite (please include the wine’s name, vintage and region), how much you paid for it and its best qualities. You can also post notes on the wineLIFE Facebook wall. That’s delicious!